MARCH 2024
I knew I really wanted to do a snow holiday with my 3 year old son, but I also knew it would be too early for a skiing holiday. I therefore decided to go to the Engadin region in Graubünden, Switzerland, as this region has some particularly kid friendly activities. Unfortunately, my back issues kept me from skiing during this week and I had lots of trouble walking. However, the Engadin region is so pretty, that I still really enjoyed myself with lighter activities, which were also perfectly toddler friendly. Continue reading for all my recommendations!
Where we stayed
We stayed in Madulain, which is a small village in the Engadin region. There honestly isn’t a lot to do here, except for the ice skating path from Madulain to Zuoz (Eisweg Madulain). The Eisweg was the main reason for me to stay here, and luckily we booked an apartment which had views over the Eisweg and a gorgeous sunset each night. We stayed in Residence Miragolf in a two-bedroom apartment with two bathrooms. The second bedroom had a bunkbed, which Hugo absolutely loved. The interior was classic Swiss, nothing too fancy, lots of wood. All the kitchen appliances worked, so we could do some cooking to keep costs down. I just didn’t love the bed, which was a bit of a bummer. When you stay in Residence Miragolf you can use the sauna for free, which we really enjoyed. There are hardly any restaurants in Madulain, so don’t expect a lively town. It is mostly just nature lovers, cross-country skiers and families staying here. Madulain does have a train station, making it very easy to get around.
Activities
You are absolutely spoiled for choice when you stay in Engadin, there is just so much to do, we could have easily stayed longer and not get bored here. The region also has great winter hiking routes, which I would have loved to do but due to my back condition this was not an option this year. Please note that we did these activities in February 2024 and depending on the weather and time of year, they might be open or not.
Eisweg Madulain: Eisweg Madulain (ice skating route) was one of the highlights of our stay. You just need to pay 5 CHF at the honesty box to be able to use it. Eisweg Madulain is about 3 kilometers long and follows the river the Inn. It was a bit hard to find, but you will see people skating and you can just enter wherever you want. We entered at the end of the village, where there are also some parking spots. There is no skate rental, so make sure to bring your own.
Eisweg Engadin: Eisweg Engadin is a bit further out from Madulain, about a one hours drive to Scuol, but it is very different to the one in Madulain and highly worth a visit. Eisweg Engadin is more organized than Eisweg Madulain, so you have to pay an entrance fee of 12 CHF, but you also have the opportunity to rent skates (5CHF) and transport items for kids (5 CHF). The Eisweg goes up and down quite a bit, so it is definitely a harder one than in Madulain, but the 3 km ride through the forest is magical!
Sleighing Preda-Bergün: The Engadin region is also home to one of the longest toboggan runs. The ride between Preda and Bergün is 6 kilometers long and what is extra special is that you arrive to the trail by train. We took the train from Madulain to Preda and could immediately rent a sledge and go down the mountains. You can rent a sledge in Preda and Bergün, prices are similar (between 10-20 CHF for a sledge). You also need to pay an entrance fee for the trail and day tickets are available. In Bergün you can also take the chairlift up to Darlux and do another toboggan trail which is much steeper and faster. We took Hugo on both runs and he absolutely loved it!
Bernina Express: The Bernina Express train rides between Chur and Tirano (Italy) and it was on my must do list for this holiday. We boarded the train near Sankt Moritz, so we could see the most snowy parts of the ride. Bernina Express tickets sell out well in advance and they weren’t available for our dates. We therefore did the Bernina line with the Rhätische Bahn, which is the local train. The advantage of this is that you can get out at the stops and that the window opens fully, for better pictures. I was a bit hesitant to spend 4 hours in a train with a toddler, but we all ended up loving the ride. We brought lots of toys and Hugo amused himself. Our train ride cost about 30 CHF one-way, which I found reasonable given the high prices in Switzerland. And you can have a lovely Italian lunch for good value. We explored Tirano for an hour and then had a lunch and took the train back to Switzerland.
Sankt Moritz: We didn’t love Sankt Moritz town, but once you’re in the region, you kind of have to visit. The town itself is not very beautiful, it is mainly square box buildings with luxury stores. However skiing in Sankt Moritz was great, Hielke went for one day and was impressed with the beautiful slopes and the lack of people. We had dinner at La Stalla, which was good, cozy and relatively affordable.
Silsersee: We visited in a very hot week, where temperatures averaged at 5 celsius during the day, so the Silsersee was not frozen while we were here. However, we had seen it from the car and it looked like a magical spot for ice skating. So make sure to check out the conditions of the Silsersee if you are in the area.
