BADEN-BADEN CITY GUIDE: NOT JUST FOR THE ELDERLY

AUGUST 2022

Baden-Baden is a beautiful town in Germany, that is famous for its spa and as a retirement home for wealthy, elderly Germans. When you visit you will notice that the tourists are relatively old, while it is such an interesting town for all ages. Baden-Baden looks like a fairytale, with mountains and forests surrounding the old town. I had previously visited Baden-Baden in autumn time, which was great with all the fall foliage. However, this summer we went back without our kid, so we could enjoy the spa and the gardens.

Practical information

Baden-Baden is located in Baden-Württemberg in the Southern part of Germany, near the border with France. It is an incredibly charming town, which thrives on being a tourist hot spot, without feeling too crowded. You will see many buildings in baroque/Art Nouveau style and in pastel tints, creating a very cinematic city center. There are several parking garages in Baden-Baden, which are pretty affordable, so you can easily make a quick stop in town. However, if you have time, I would recommend to spend at least a weekend here as there is so much to do. Baden-Baden is a resort style city and you can find many fancy hotels. One of the most famous is the Brenners hotel, which is located in the most lovely spot, next to the old town and in the middle of the Lichtentaler alee park. Prices start at around € 500 per night, which we found too expensive. We parked our van for free at the edge of town and saved our money for activities!

Gorgeous Brenner hotel

Things to do in Baden-Baden

Spa: You cannot miss out at visiting a spa in Baden-Baden. In Germany when a city has “Bad” in its name, it means you can find a spa there. The Romans already created baths in Baden-Baden 2000 years ago, so you can say that Baden-Baden has a history with being a spa town. The two most famous spas that you can find in town are the Friedrichsbad and the Caracalla spa. We decided to visit the Friedrichsbad as it a Roman style bathhouse, where you should do a set order of steamrooms and baths. This sounded like an interesting experience, while the Caracalla spa is a modern, luxury spa, more in the style of spas in the Netherlands. We paid € 32 per person to be able to enter the Friedrichsbad. I found the entrance fee pretty steep, but the experience was very special. Of course I wasn’t allowed to take pictures inside of the spa, but the bath with the Roman dome was very special to visit! We went to the Friedrichsbad right when it opened and even had the baths to ourselves for a bit. A robe, towels and slippers are included in your entrance fee, so you do not need to bring anything yourself. Please note that this is a naked spa.

You can spot the dome of Friedrichsbad on the building behind me

The Caracalla spa has some bathing suit areas and has days in which you are allowed to enter clothed. Check out their website if you want to know more.

Lichtentaler Allee: The Lichtentaler Allee is the public park in Baden-Baden. It was prettier when I visited in autumn, but the great thing is that the rose garden was in bloom in summertime. If you visit in August/September there is a dahlia garden as well. The gardens are free to enter. Definitely reserve some time to wander around.

Trinkhalle: This is the pumproom that belongs to the spas. I loved strolling through the arcade that shows off frescoes depicting Baden-Baden’s legends. It is free to enter.

Rosenneuheitengarten: By a quick browse on google maps I discovered that Baden-Baden had another rose garden. This one is situated on the top of a hill, overlooking the Black Forest. The rose arches were super spectacular and the entrance fee is only € 2. Now you only need to hike up to this part of Baden-Baden…

Paradies Cascade: It is a little bit outside of the city center, but definitely worth the climb: the Paradies Cascade. Is it a piece of art, is it a fountain or is it both? I just know we had it to ourselves at 9AM and that it was super serene.

Baroque old town: Baden-Baden has a lovely old town, which is perfect for an afternoon of aimlessly wandering. The old town features several casinos, where we did not go as we do not like to gamble. Baden-Baden has many lovely restaurants, and you can choose to go traditional with a flammkuchen or go all out luxe. Make sure to venture off the main roads and you will be surprised by the low-key pastel colored buildings.

Baden-Baden in autumn: Baden-Baden is one of the best autumn spots in Europe. Especially, the Lichtentaler Allee becomes a spectacle of colors with its fall foliage. I visited in 2021 and wrote a separate blogpost, which you can find here.

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